Kuli South Georgia Expedition

Oct 15


Published at 17:43
Dispatch created from email
King Edward Point, the only human settlement on South Georgia, is a place
where the bounty of nature meets horror flick.
On one side of King Edward, elephant seals nurse their newborn pups,
penguins pose for tourists, fur seals frolic in the tide beneath mountain
peaks that rival the best of the Swiss Alps. On the other side, stand the
rusting remnants of what was once a blood-drenched killing floor – the
Grytviken whale-processing station. The contrast of pristine habitat and
decaying death machine is almost comical.
Grytviken’s graveyard-quiet infrastructure – the Rust Belt of South
Georgia – is a memorial to an industry that employed some 1,000 men at its
height. Starting in 1904, hunters from Norway, Scotland and even Japan
sailed to the southern ocean, harpooned the unsuspecting cetaceans and towed
their carcasses to Grytviken. Once ashore, men known as flensers ripped
their bellies open with long knives and gutted them. The dead whales were
then drawn up a ramp and put through an industrial processing line. Their
body oils were turned into lamp fuel; their blubber became dog food; their
bones were used for everything from scrimshaw to lining for women’s
Paul Mayewski dubbed the site “Auschwitz for Whales.” A more fitting
nickname has rarely been coined.
By the mid-20th Century, whale populations were so sparse that they could no
longer be hunted profitably. Grytviken shut down in 1965. But the shores of
King Edward are lined with whale vertebrae the size of flat-screen TVs to
this very day.
The history of South Georgia’s whaling industry is documented in the
Grytviken museum, managed by the wonderfully witty Sarah Lurcock. She and
her husband, Pat, has lived on South Georgia for nearly 20 years. Their home
is on the beachfront, with broad bay windows that look out on fairytale
landscapes – away from the whale processing plant.
Across the bay lies a cemetery for fallen whalers, most of whom have
Scandinavian names. But the most famous resident here is Sir Ernest
Shackleton, the Anglo-Irish explorer who quite nearly became the first
person to set foot on the South Pole. In 1916, he and his crew were
shipwrecked off the coast of Antarctica. Shackleton sailed 800 miles from
Antarctica to South Georgia in an open lifeboat to save his men – and
succeeded. Death came from a heart attack while he was moored off South
Georgia in 1922. It became Shackleton’s final resting place.
Everyone is anxious for the science portion of this journey to get under
way. But a three-day storm is heading straight for us. Ice cores – the
objects of Mayewski’s desire, and the entire reason we came here –
remain tantalizingly out of reach.
  • Name: King Edward Point / Grytviken
  • Elevation: 0 m
  • Latitude: 54° 1654South
  • Longitude: 36° 3028West


  • Report as abuse...
    2024-06-10 11:13:43 Pakistan says: Fantastic blog! Do you have any tips and hints for aspiring writers? I’m planning to start my own website soon but I’m a little lost on everything. Would you propose starting with a free platform like WordPress or go for a paid option? There are so many options out there that I’m completely overwhelmed .. Any suggestions? Many thanks! sweet puff
  • Report as abuse...
    2024-06-06 13:17:35 seo says: Thank you a bunch for sharing this with all of us you actually realize what you are talking about! Bookmarked. Please also seek advice from my site =). We could have a hyperlink change contract between us! EURO 2024 calendrier
  • Report as abuse...
    2024-05-30 11:45:47 Pakistan says: You there, this is really good post here. Thanks for taking the time to post such valuable information. Quality content is what always gets the visitors coming. 메이저놀이터
  • Report as abuse...
    2024-05-30 11:25:40 Pakistan says: i never know the use of adobe shadow until i saw this post. thank you for this! this is very helpful. https://tocanara.com
  • Report as abuse...
    2024-05-30 11:18:25 Pakistan says: We are really grateful for your blog post. You will find a lot of approaches after visiting your post. I was exactly searching for. Thanks for such post and please keep it up. Great work. 토토사이트
  • Report as abuse...
    2024-05-30 11:06:34 Pakistan says: Great job for publishing such a beneficial web site. Your web log isn’t only useful but it is additionally really creative too. 카지노사이트
  • Report as abuse...
    2024-05-30 10:53:26 Pakistan says: A very excellent blog post. I am thankful for your blog post. I have found a lot of approaches after visiting your post. 출장마사지
  • Report as abuse...
    2024-05-30 10:43:56 Pakistan says: Pretty good post. I have just stumbled upon your blog and enjoyed reading your blog posts very much. I am looking for new posts to get more precious info. Big thanks for the useful info. 슬롯사이트
  • Report as abuse...
    2024-05-30 10:33:51 Pakistan says: Thank you for very usefull information.. 메이저사이트
  • Report as abuse...
    2024-05-21 13:24:44 Afghanistan says: Someone Sometimes with visits your blog regularly and recommended it in my experience to read as well. The way of writing is excellent and also the content is top-notch. Thanks for that insight you provide the readers! 먹튀검증
  • Report as abuse...
    2024-05-16 14:20:22 canada says: Nice to be visiting your blog again, it has been months for me. Well this article that i’ve been waited for so long. I need this article to complete my assignment in the college, and it has same topic with your article. Thanks, great share. 토토커뮤니티
  • More...

Add Comment

Notify this dispatch to subscribers?